The missing link(age)

This evening I managed to remove the link arms and lift rods from Freida. I’ve spent days soaking the seized clevis pins and linkage knuckles in WD40 and trying to club them out with my trusty 3lb ball pein, to no avail.

With no heat source available to make the knuckles glow before smacking the rusted pins out, I decided that the only option available was to cut through the pin with a cutting blade on an angle grinder, in the gap between the knuckle and the lift arm fork.

After doing so I discarded the knuckles, lift rod and link arms as they have had it. Although the coffee grinder is still good.

Pics to follow, as I’ve yet to requisition a camera.

Jake,

Salty nuts…

^This^ is/was a tow hitch that Michael and myself designed and made for use on a cat 1 three point linkage. “Great!” you may think. But Freida has no working linkage at the moment? So I’ve had a re-think.

On the underside of the differential/axle casting there are four 5\8″ Whitworth studs set into it for the use of attaching a Ferguson hitch. So I’ve spent the past hour removing said studs and nuts, wire wheeling them up, re-tapping/dieing where neccesarily and inserting them to the correct dept into the casting. As they were highly corroded/pitted from the sea and years of moisture, (And I was taught that salt was a preservative. Hahaa) And some clown hadn’t screwed them in all the way, or gave up when the nuts siezed to them.

I plan to bolt a simple frame onto these holes which extends 10″ rearward, roughly inline with the rim of the wheel. Here, I shall mount my towball.

Jake,

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Much like this fine piece of engineering.

Mike,

Puch Maxi

Work began today on the re-conditioning of a Puch Maxi moped.

So far water and stale fuel has been removed from the carb, the carb has been cleaned and serviced, and a spark has been achieved, no thanks to the existing wiring!

However, despite the presence of both fuel and a spark, the machine has yet to come to life, we suspect the cause is water in the crankcase contaminating each fresh charge of fuel… Hopefully the removal of the block overnight and the liberal application of water dispersing products to the crank case will remedy this;

Wiring Diagrams here.

Leyland glow plug and head gasket replacement

When I first purchased the Leyland it was impossible to start without using easy start, not ideal! However after some testing with a multimeter it turned out that all the glow plugs had failed open circuit, this should have been a simple job, but when I removed the plugs from the head I was greeted by this motley crew;

The tractor had been run with dead plugs for so long that carbon had built up solidly round the tips and caused them to break off when the body of the plugs were un-screwed, the only way to remove the stubs was going to be lifting the head…

Once the head was on the bench the next challenge was to knock out the combustion chambers, eventually achieved using a specially curved rod inserted through the injector hole and hit with a hammer;

Once the stubs from the injector were punched out, the remaning carbon deposits were cleaned out using a 11/64 drill, and the head was de-coked and refitted with a new gasket.

Since then cold starting has not been a problem, no easy start required.

Oops!

With both side covers removed from Freida’s back end, all bolts undone and a severe amount of jiggling and poking of all parts, I can’t seem to remove her hydraulic lift assembly. Even after consulting Mr Ferguson’s Bible I’m none the wiser.

I can’t seem to disconnect the hand control fork from the control valve, even if this was done, it seems that there is another brace between the fork, yet below the main driveshaft that runs through the back end.  Therefore I can’t lift the lift assemly out.